Guidelines for the Use of Bolts and Fixed Anchors in Lofoten

Background

As member clubs of the Norwegian Climbing Federation (NKF), Lofoten Tindeklubb and Vest-Lofoten Klatreklubb support NKF’s general guidelines for the use of bolts and fixed installations in the mountains. The following is based on these guidelines (https://klatring.no/file/7).

Lofoten is an area with rich climbing opportunities and long traditions. Climbing here is primarily done using natural protection, except for some established sport climbing crags, bolted rappel routes at high-traffic locations, and occasional protection bolts in the mountains where no other protection options are available.

Due to the high level of activity and the large number of visitors, there is a need for a local reference point for established traditions and ethics in the area. Lofoten Tindeklubb and Vest-Lofoten Klatreklubb wish to uphold this role and, through these guidelines, provide general recommendations regarding the establishment of fixed anchors, rebolting, and necessary maintenance.

Guidelines for the Use of Bolts and Other Fixed Anchors

The climbing community in Lofoten, including Lofoten Tindeklubb and Vest-Lofoten Klatreklubb, should strive for minimal impact and keep technical modifications to a necessary minimum while making them as unobtrusive as possible.

Routes and climbing areas may, under certain circumstances, be equipped with fixed anchors as a means of accessibility or safety enhancement when:

• New crags and new high-quality routes cannot be protected in any other way.

• The area experiences high traffic, where technical modifications may reduce conflicts and benefit climbers, other users, and the area itself.

As a general rule, routes that can be naturally protected should not be bolted. Exceptions may be made for mixed routes where the character of the route is not compromised by full bolting.

Bolting is not permitted in mountain terrain (alpine areas) or in established areas for naturally protected climbing. Exceptions may be made for rappel routes on heavily trafficked mountains and routes where this would improve safety and aesthetics (cleaning up old equipment).

Local traditions and the ascent history of routes should be respected, especially where there are clear distinctions between naturally protected climbing areas or alpine terrain and areas with fixed anchors. Those who have been using the climbing area for the longest time—usually the local community—should have the most influence over any modifications.

For bolting projects conducted or supported by Lofoten Tindeklubb or Vest-Lofoten Klatreklubb, the following considerations and requirements apply:

• Access rights must be secured through a landowner agreement.

• Potential conflicts arising from increased traffic at the site must be assessed and, if necessary, mitigated with appropriate measures.

• Responsibility for future maintenance should be clarified through an agreement with the local climbing club.

• Only high-quality bolts should be used to ensure the longest possible lifespan.

• Newly bolted routes must be safe, minimizing the risk of ground falls and other dangerous falls. The same applies to rebolting, which should generally be carried out in consultation with the first ascensionist.

• Other principles and safety requirements for proper bolting should be followed, in accordance with NKF’s guidelines and recommendations.

• Ethical considerations must be evaluated before implementation.

Bolting projects should not be carried out if they conflict with conservation regulations, species protection, other important environmental considerations, or the wishes of the local climbing community.

Climbing clubs should generally only support bolting of areas that are likely to see long-term use.

Whether and how bolting and rebolting should be carried out may also depend on circumstances and discussions outlined in NKF’s national guidelines for the use of bolts (https://klatring.no/file/7 ).